Living in the Shadow of Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Ani, also known as the City of 1001 Churches, is a vast ancient city located on the Turkish-Armenian border. From 961 AD to 1045 AD, it was the capital of the Bagratid Armenian empire that stretched across Armenia and eastern Turkey. At its zenith, Ani had a population of over 100,000 people. Today, all that is left of this once great city are the shells of the massive Armenian churches, administrative buildings, fortifications and palaces strew across the high plains around the modern Turkish city of Kars. Local farmers have made the plains around these monolithic structures their homes; living in and around the crumbling churches and fortified walls of Ani. Beekeepers lay out their hives in the thick grass and flowers of the meadows around Ani. Herders lead their cattle through the fields between the ancient churches and fortifications. And small mountain villages have built up around the sprawling site. This ongoing project documents their lives and traditions living in the shadow of Ani. [Ongoing Project June 2015 - Present]
Herding on the high plains around Ani, Eastern Turkey.
A herder grazes his cattle on the plains around the ancient ruins of Ani. Herders live and graze their animals in and around the towering cathedrals and fortifications of Ani. They practice traditional herding techniques that go back hundreds of years - grazing their animals in the lower plains around Ani during the winter and the high plains on the surrounding mountains in the summer months. Many of these families have lived in the same small settlements for generations. These herders will graze their animals in the site of Ani early in the morning before the site officially opens to tourists. The herder's rights to graze their cattle through the site is an unspoken agreement between the local herders and the sites' caretakers. Plains around Ani, Eastern Turkey.
The Cathedral, Ani. Eastern Turkey.
The Cathedral, also called Surp Asdvadzadzin (the Church of the Holy Mother of God), was built in 989 AD by King Smbat II. The building wasn't completed until 1001 AD. It had a domed basilica, but that structure collapsed in 1319 AD. The building contains pointed arches and clustered piers to give it a Gothic style. The Cathedral was designed by the architect Trdat. It's one of the best preserved of the Ani churches. The Cathedral, Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Traditional sheep cheese production. Ocakli village next to Ani. Eastern Turkey.
A local woman living in the Ocakli village next to the ruins of Ani prepares sheep milk to be turned into cheese. Locals living in this region live in many ways their ancestors have for hundreds of years. To make the sheep cheese, women prepare the milk in a large metal basin and then store it in the sheep skin to curdle and form cheese. Locals villagers sustain their families and make a small living from selling this cheese, as well as the other produce they grow. Ocakli village located on the edge of Ani, Eastern Turkey.
Cheesemaking in the region around Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Locals living around the ancient site of Ani still make cheese in the traditional manner, in a sheepskin bag stored in a dark, cool building for many weeks. Near Ani, Eastern Turkey. Ocakli village situated next to Ani, Eastern Turkey.
Ani at sunrise. Eastern Turkey.
Ani's main fortifications and central city complex at sunrise. The ancient city is a ruined medieval-era Armenian city now situated in Turkey's Kars province. It is located next to the closed border with Armenia. From 961 AD to 1045 AD, Ani was the capital of the Bagratid Armenian kingdom covering present-day Armenia and eastern Turkey. Nicknamed the "City of 1001 Churches," it stood at the crossroads of many trade routes. At the peak of its power and influence, Ani's once magnificent churches, palaces, and fortifications were some of the most technically and artistically advanced structures in the world. During Ani's golden age, its population was around 100,000 people. Today it's a collection of crumbling buildings and walls scattered across miles of farm land on the Armenian-Turkish boarder. Ani, Eastern Turkey.
Farmland around Ani. Eastern, Turkey.
Farmland and small farming communities have grown up around the ruins of Ani. The land around it is rich with nutrients and perfect for farming. Local beekeepers, herders, and farmers raise their plants and animals in and around these impressive ruins. Herders continue to have access to the site (outside of opening hours) to graze their cattle through the site. The Church of St. George of the Abughamrents and an unnamed church, Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Cattle grazing in The Basilica. Ani, Eastern, Turkey.
Herders from villages bordering the ancient site of Ani will often bring their cattle to graze at the site early in the morning before tourists arrive. The local farmers and herders have a close relationship to the ancient site as well as the land where it is located. Many of the herders grew up in and around the site and their families have lived around Ani for generations. The Basilica, Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Cattle graze at the Church of the Holy Apostles, Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Cattle graze in front of the Church of the Holy Apostles. The church was built by the Pahlavuni dynasty, and during that time period was used by the Archbishops. Today all that remains is the shell of the lower part of the church. Cattle often graze in and around the area. Church of the Holy Apostles, Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Local herder looking for his cattle. Ani, Eastern Turkey.
A herder from Ocakli village, on the border with the site of Ani, follows his cattle in the site. Herders continue to use Ani to graze their cattle, just as their ancestors have done for centuries. The ancient sites of Ani, until recent times, has been part of the landscape and the farmers in the neighboring villages grew up living and working among these colossal stone cathedrals and fortifications. Today that tradition continues with herders bringing their animals through Ani in the morning hours before the site opens to the public. Ani, Eastern Turkey.
Toppled column head in the Basilica. Ani, Eastern Turkey.
Today, most of what remains at Ani are the towering walls of churches and fortifications. In the Basilica, a number of well-preserved column heads can still be found throughout the site. The Basilica, Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Honey cultivated from beehives near Ani. Eastern Turkey.
The honey from the Kars province, particularly near Ani, is thought to be some of the best honey in all of Turkey. Locals say the secret to the great tasting honey is that the bees are raised at varying altitudes and the beekeepers frequently move the hives so the bees can collect pollen from a variety of mountain flowers and plants. Near Ani, Eastern Turkey.
Cultivating bees in the fields around Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Local beekeepers use the fields around Ani for their beehives - cultivating Turkey's famous honey. Turkey's Kars honey gets its distinctive flavor from the different flowers that grow at varying altitudes. This practice of frequently moving the hives is a traditional technique that beekeepers have been using in the region for generations. Many beekeepers use the fields around the ruins of Ani to raise their hives. Plains near Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Local beekeepers raise their bees in the fields around Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Local nomadic beekeepers live and raise their bees in the fields around Ani. They move throughout the year, bringing their bees to the high fields during the summer months and the lower pastures during the spring and fall months. They live out of tents and move their bees every few weeks. The entire family lives in the tents and care for the bees. Plains near Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Churches of the Gorge. Ani, Eastern Turkey.
The churches and fortification of Ani extend down into the deep gorge which runs next to the main center of the city. Bordered on one side by the dramatic Akhourian River gorge and the other side Tsalkotsajour river, Ani had natural fortifications and protections. They extended both the fortifications and the buildings of their city down into the steep Akhourian gorge. Unnamed church in the Akhourian River gorge, Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Old and new mixes in the hills and pastures around Ani. The ancient city of Ani is surrounded by more modern settlements. Across this stretch of eastern Turkey are mixed Ani's imposing fortification walls and towers, its ancient cathedrals and the modern-day farming communities that tend the land. Fortification walls, The church of St Gregory of the Abughamrents, and a local farming community. Ani, Eastern Turkey.
Beekeeping family. Ani, Eastern Turkey.
Beekeeping in eastern Turkey is often carried out by an entire family. Moving from field to field to allow their bees to pollinate the flowers, they live a nomadic life. This family located on the fields around Ani spend the summer months near the ancient Armenian site then took their bees to Samsun on the Black Sea for the winter months. Plains near Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Traditional beekeeping. Ani, Eastern Turkey.
Beekeepers raise their bees and harvest honey around the ruins of Ani. With the fertile plains and changing elevations this area is excellent for cultivating honey. The beekeepers are nomadic bringing everything with them, including their beekeeping suits and their hive boxes. Fields near Ani, eastern Turkey.
Cattle grazing in pastures around Ani. Eastern Turkey.
A herder grazes his cattle on the pastures around Ani. These high altitude pastures are used by local herders whose families lived in these areas for centuries. Fields near Ani, Eastern Turkey.
Herder in the site of Ani, Eastern Turkey.
From Ocakli village, located at the entrance to Ani, grazes his cattle through the site of Ani. As they have done for centuries, local herders bring their cattle through the ancient site. Now though it takes place in the morning hours before the site opens to the public. Ani, Eastern Turkey.
Church of the Holy Apostles, Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Cattle graze in front of the Church of the Holy Apostles. The church was built by the Pahlavuni dynasty, and during that time period was used by the Archbishops. Today all that remains is the shell of the lower part of the church. Cattle often graze in and around the area. Church of the Holy Apostles, Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Fortification walls of Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Nicknamed the City of 1001 Churches, the main Ani complex is still partly surrounded by its fortification walls. These walls are thick, with towers and battlements. At it's peak of power, Ani had over 100,000 inhabitants. Ani, Eastern, Turkey.
Traditional Breadmaking. Ocakli village next to Ani. Eastern Turkey.
The communities around Ani still make bread in the traditional way they have for hundreds of years. Bread is cooked in large pits in the ground that are located in special huts. Ocakli village residents, living next to the entrance to Ani, make bread in this manner utilizing a pit oven. Ocakli village, Ani. Eastern Turkey.
Interior of The Cathedral, Ani. Eastern Turkey.
The largest structure still standing at Ani, the Cathedral was the head of the Armenian Apostolic Church during the Bagratid Armenian kingdom. Today, its great domes is gone, but much of the church still remains including its towering pointed arches and clustered piers. The Cathedral is also known as Also known as Surp Asdvadzadzin (the Church of the Holy Mother of God). The Cathedral, Ani. Eastern Turkey.